The Cycle Ride
The Ride...
The first 48 hours on this magical island - Stage 1
I fly in to Bastia, make camp at Madame Vignon's bed & breakfast and prepare for the ride of a lifetime. The next day, I head north along the east coast, cross over to the west coast and overnight in Nonza.
Day 3 - Stage 2
Stage 2 - the full story
From Nonza continue down the North West coastline to St. Florent. Then loop up through the hills to the South East via the villages of Oletta, Rapale, Sorio, Vezzi and back down again, passed the Lac de Padula, to the Kalliste campsite near the beach of St. Florent.
Day 4 - Stage 3
From St. Florent, I head SW across the Desert des Agriates (D81) then west on the N1197, which leads to L'Ile Rousse. Before L'Ile Rousse, I turn left and climb towards Belgodere. At Belgodere, I take the N197 to Olmi, via the D963 and overnight at Pioggiola.
Day 5 - Stage 4
Climb up the D63 from Pioggiola to Bocca di a Battaglia (1,100 metres) then a steep descent to Speloncato. Turn left on to the D663 then join the D71 to Feliceto, on passed Muro and Avapessa. At Cateri, turn left on to the D151 to Montemaggiore where I stop for lunch. Then on to Calenzana for an overnight stop at a campsite just off the main road from Calenzana to Calvi.
Day 6 - Stage 5
Avoid the main road into Calvi and instead take the D51 across to join the D81 at Suare. Quite a long climb to the Bocca di Marsolinu, followed by a glorious descent along the D81. Cross over Le Fango at the Pont de Cinq Arcades, turn left and head away from Galéria, turn left again and head along the D351, with the river on my left. Stop overnight at a Gîte d'étape near the Pont de Tuvarelli-Chiorna.
Day 7 - Stage 6
There is only one way, by road, between Galéria and Porto - the D81. It snakes its way up, down and through the Forêt du Fangu. With over 2,700 metres of climb during this 50 kms stage, this could be my toughest stage yet. Not many villages along the route, so must make sure I have plenty of food and water at the outset.
Day 8 - Stage 7
From Porto I head inland . The D84 snakes and climbs its way up the Gorges de Spelunca to the village of Évisa. I continue climbing to the Col de Sevi and then drop down to the village of Vico. Here I turn off the D70 on to the D1 which winds its way down to the River Liamone. At this point, I get completely lost! Eventually find myself on the D81 coast road south of Sagone.
Day 9 - Stage 8
I head south on the D81 towards Ajaccio, but turn off onto the D161, through the village of Afa to avoid the busy main road, skirt round the Capital of Corsica. End up getting a little bit lost, so back-track and head to the seaside town of Porticcio south of Ajaccio. Overnight at the Kaliste Hotel as I'm unable to find a camp site fully open.
Day 10 - Stage 9
Stage 9 - the full story
Heading south out of Porticcio along the D55. At the far end of the beach is the small village of Agnarellu, I continue South along the coast. At the southern end of the Plage de Mare e Sole the D55 takes a 90° left turn and then climbs up through the Forêt Domaniale de Chiavari before dropping down, crossing the Tavaro river then winding along the coast towards Propriano. I overnight at a campsite south of Propriano.
Day 11 - Stage 10
Propriano to Bonifacio, along the N196, is just under 50kms. However, only a few kilometres in to my day's ride and I realise the N196 is not the road for me - too busy and too dangerous. I turn left on to the D268/D69, a couple of kilometres before the village of Sartene, and head up in to the hills. Lunch in the village of Levie. Climb to the Col de Bicunu and then a hard ride on the road to Bonafacio.
Day 14 - Stage 11
I wake early in order to take some photos of the citadel at sunrise then it's back to the campsite to pack up everything and climb back into the saddle. My stay in Bonafacio has been very enjoyable - great food and spectacular scenery - but it's time to move on. At the roundabout on the outskirts of Bonafacio, I turn right on to the N198, a relatively flat and straight 25kms of road to Porto-Vecchio. Flat and straight, but this main road is not my idea of fun...time to head for the hills.
I wake early in order to take some photos of the citadel at sunrise then it's back to the campsite to pack up everything and climb back into the saddle. My stay in Bonafacio has been very enjoyable - great food and spectacular scenery - but it's time to move on. At the roundabout on the outskirts of Bonafacio, I turn right on to the N198, a relatively flat and straight 25kms of road to Porto-Vecchio. Flat and straight, but this main road is not my idea of fun...time to head for the hills.
Day 14 - Stage 12
Leaving my panniers, tent and fly fishing gear at the hotel, I took the 18kms round trip to the Col de Bavella (1,218 metres). Back at the hotel I loaded up the bike and took the D420 out of Zonza to Quenza then a 9kms downhill detour to the Pont Novu, over the river Rizzanese, near Zoza. I had intended to fly fish the river, but found people swimming in the river, so turned around and headed 9kms back up the hill. I continued along the D420, passed the villages of Sorbollano and Serra-di-Scopamène and on to Aullène to stop for the night at a Chambre D'hôte.
Day 15 - Stage 13
Ready to leave Aullène by 9:00am. Straight into the first climb of the day; a really good, steady 13kms climb. Meet a couple from Toulon, They have been coming to Corsica, on and off, for over thirty years. Stopped for lunch in Cozzano with 32kms on the clock and then on to the refuge San Pietro di Verde at the Col de Verde (1,289 metres).
Day 16 - Stage 14
Left San Pietro di Verde at 9:00am and downhill all the way to Ghisoni. Breathtaking climb (in more ways than one) to the Col de Sorba (1,311 metres). Half hour descent to the junction of the D69 with the N193. Arrive in Corte at 3:30pm and overnight at a campsite along the Gorge de Restonica.
Day 17 - Stage 15
Back in to Corte for breakfast then head out on the D18 and a gentle climb to Castirla. I turn right on to the D84 and join the busy N193/T20. After a few kilometres, I decide to retrace my route and pitch tent at a campsite which is situated beside the River Golo (between Castirla and Francardo). Time for some fly-fishing!
Day 18 - Stage 16
Leaving the River Golo behind me I head North on the busy N193/T20 to Ponte Leccia, then head South East on the D71 to Morosaglia. Continue on through unspoilt countryside to Piedicroce and stunning scenery all the way to Cervione.
Day 19 - Stage 17
The penultimate day of my cycling journey! I travel North from Cervione to Vescavato along a quiet hiltop road approximately 300 metres above and parallel to the East coast road. Overnight in a quite unusual B&B.
Day 20 - Stage 18
My final day of cycling around Corsica has dawned. I would love to spend more days and weeks exploring this Island. So many roads untravelled. By the afternoon I will be back in Bastia where the journey began 3 weeks ago. Oh well...best be on my way, but which way? Ummm, the maps looking are looking a little bit worn.