Stage 2
Week 1 - Stage 2, Tuesday 8th May
Nonza to St. Florent via Oletta, Vecci and Lac De Padula (63kms)
Total Ascent - 2,657 metres
Total Descent - 2,657 metres
I awoke to a beautiful and already quite warm, sunny morning. There was no sign of the bikers as I headed down for breakfast, so I ate alone and took advantage of the moment by simply taking in all the sights, sounds and smells around me. The continuous 'inhale and exhale' of the sea in the form of waves breaking and receding on the pebble beach. The smell of saltwater on seaweed-covered rocks, mixed with the sight of a clear blue horizon. With my 'fuel tank' pleasantly full, I set about loading the panniers back on the bike. A quick check of the route ahead and I'm ready to go. By now the bikers were surfacing, so they all gathered round to wish me "Bon voyage". They lined the patio and each patted my back as I rode passed! A short steep climb found me back on to the D80 the main road that winds along the west coast. I turned south, towards St. Florent and started to give the day's ride ahead a little more thought.
I was - in effect - half a day ahead of myself having planned to overnight in Macinaggio. Tonight I had scheduled to overnight in St. Florent but the town was only approximately 15 kms. further along the road. As I peddled and pondered the day's ride (yes, men can multi-task!), my thoughts were interrupted by the sound of fast-approaching motorbikes. I instinctively moved even closer to the right-hand verge. One by one, my friends, the Belgium bikers roared passed, each one hooting and 'wheelieing' along the road! I wave back and pretend to wobble on my bike. Very soon the bikes are out of site, although the roar from their engines stays in my ears for a few seconds longer. The increased noise each time the bikes accelerate out of the next bend hidden from my view further along the coast road. Soon I round the Viscinosa headland and swoop down and across the Ruisseau de Campu Maggiore. Then begins a long very gentle climb to the first roundabout I've seen since Bastia. Here the D80 becomes the D81 - right towards St. Florent or left, up and over the Col de Teghime, to Bastia (approx. 15 km.). I decide to stop for a coffee and check the map to make my next decision. There's a circuitous route to the South East of St. Florent (D82/D162/D62) that will take in a number of hill-top villages. Also the Lac De Padula looks interesting, if only because the shape reminds me of a reservoir, Bewl Water, close to my home in England. Perhaps it is home to trout as well?
Twenty minutes later and I'm back in the saddle heading towards St. Florent. Very soon I'm cycling through the main thoroughfare, choosing not to stop (the hills and the possibility of some fly-fishing spur me on!), I head out of the town and turn left, at a roundabout, towards Oletta. Another gentle climb greets me before I turn off right and drop down to the lake. There are several people fishing, but all course-fishing. A brief chat with one of the anglers confirms my initial assumption; no trout, only carp. I must admit, I had hoped to spend a few hours fly-fishing: You know, shake hands with the mind and then take a gentle cycle back to St. Florent for a lazy afternoon/evening. Well, with Plan A out the window...Plan B walks in the door! I turn the bike around and head back up to the main road. I resume my climb towards the village of Oletta.
1:30pm finds me dismounting outside a lovely hilltop restaurant in Oletta with spectacular views of the surrounding mountainside. The lake below, Monte Astu (1,535 mtrs.) and St. Florent in the distance. Time to re-fill the fuel tank. Yumm, simple, but hearty fare; potato omelette and salad, followed by mint ice cream. After lunch I take time out to do...absolutely nothing.
"What is this life, if full of care, we have no time to stand and stare?"
William Henry Davies, 1871-1940
Having put the brain in neutral for a while, it's time to be on my way again. The D82 winds its way along the mountainside. A few kilometres further on I reach a roundabout with five choices of direction. The first and second exits follow either side of the Defile de Lancone down to the N193, the main North to South road that runs between Bastia and Bonifacio. The third and fourth exits, in fact, join about five kilometres along their routes.
I decide to take the D62 west towards Rapale and Sorie. The road continues to follow the contours of the mountain, gently climbing up and down and twisting through small villages and stunning scenery all the way. One minute, each side of the road there are brambles, nettles, daisies and ferns. The next minute, Aloe Vera and olive trees - English countryside in perfect harmony with this stunning Mediterranean island!
Peddling along, I find my mind wandering off. I'm starting to mentally collate the best things, and the most irritating, about this cycling trip. Whenever I get annoyed about something, I try to balance it with a positive thought. So, for instance, when I was climbing towards Oletta, in the 25 degree heat, I thought, "Why is there always shade when I'm cycling downhill, but not up?". I have just crested a rise after a steep little climb and then free-wheeled down the other side. Such a good feeling! And so the balance between bad and good is restored. :0)
Zuccarello Rapale, Piève, Sorio, Vezzi...the villages come and go as I wind my way along this tranquil backwater. Only my second day on the road and already my expectations of the beauty of Corsica are exceeded. Just like a good book you can't put down, I don't want this ride to end. About 3.5 km. passed the village of Vezzi, I decide to take a small road off to the right which looks like it will take me back down to the lake. Wow! What a great downhill ride! In the first 250 metres, I drop about 175 metres. The distance to the lake from the turn-off is approximately 5 km. and I'm there in minutes! I feel like a young boy again - head down, elbows tucked-in - all that's missing is a playing card fixed to my front fork clicking against the spokes!
I stop once more by the lake, smiling all the while, thinking what I have done and where I've been since standing at the same place this morning. From here, I can turn through 270 degrees and follow my entire route along the mountainside. The last leg back to St. Florent is a gentle downhill. I turn left and cross a bridge over the river l'Aliso. There's a sign on the left advertising a camp site along the river. Now that could be a good place to overnight - maybe a chance later to fly-fish while the sun goes down? Unfortunately my hopes are soon dashed for the camp site is closed! Oh well, never mind. I turn around and head back to the main road. Almost opposite is a small road with several more signs for camp sites, hopefully one of these is open. Yep, there are three camp sites, each of which is open for business! Having peddled up and down the road, I decide on the first one - Kalliste - for no particular reason.
After registering at reception, I set about finding a good 'pitch' for the night. Blimey it's a long time since I've spent the night under canvas (read Polyester/Nylon RipStop) and apart from a 'dummy-run' in my garden, only the second time this tent has been erected. This could prove quite amusing for my campsite neighbours! My fears are unfounded...the campsite is very quiet, so no immediate onlookers (phew!). In no time at all (ish) the tent is up and the clothes drying line in place. Now for the washing - clothes and me and in that order. Suitably scrubbed, I'm off to the campsite's restaurant while my clothes hang around at the tent. My stomach seems to have worked out the routine early on this trip: bounce up and down all day long, then accept all that comes its way whatever the time of day. Well, tonight my stomach shall be rewarded, the campsite has a good restaurant and before long, I'm suitably watered and fed. Satiated, I return to my tent. The sun is setting on another perfect day as I bed-down for the first time in my new surroundings. Have to say, I'm rather interested (read anxious) to see how the sleeping bag and - more importantly - the mattress perform. The mattress is one of those self-inflating, pack away very small items. So, I'm a tad concerned the compromise on thickness for lightweight packability will result in my tired body shivering throughout the night while feeling every Corsican pebble and stone!
