Stage 14
Week 3 - Stage 14, Monday 21st May
Refuge San Pietro di Verde to Corte via Ghisoni and the Col de Sorba (62 kms)
Total Ascent - 3,355 metres
Total Descent - 3,978 metres
9:00am and I'm ready to saddle-up and ride for Corte. I continue along the D69 and descend towards Ghisoni. And what a descent; a distance of 15.5kms with a drop in elevation of over 600 metres and...it took me 1hr 35mins. The scenery was so beautiful, I had to keep stopping to take photos and simply enjoy! I push on past Ghisoni and climb for 11kms to the Col Sorba (1,311m), winding up through the Foret Communale de Ghisoni, very grateful for the shade and reaching the summit at 12:45pm - again - after many 'photo stops'. The contrast in scenery at the summit could not be more different. My descent route before me is clear to see because all the trees and vegetation are gone. At some point, in recent history, a forest fire has completely destroyed all flora and probably a great deal of fauna as well. The contrast between the wooded climb and the barren descent is quite dramatic.
A half hour of downhill riding through the scarred landscape brings me to the junction of the D69 with the N193. The main road between the capital Ajaccio and Corte which was the capital for only 15 years back in the 18th Century. I stop for lunch at the 'Le Chalet' and contemplate the next couple of hours' ride on what is clearly going to be a busy road. Unfortunately, the only alternative route would entail another climb and add at least 1/2 hour to reach Corte.
The 'N' for nasty N193 it will be, which I reckon will take about 1 1/2 hours. The weather has become humid and overcast - maybe there's a chance of a rain shower? I switch on the rear light just before nine motor bikes go past me at a crazy speed. Ironically the next vehicle is a hearse. Made me think of the Terry Pratchett books with the 'Grim Reaper' following the bikers around the Island. Possibly some poor sod on a push bike?!
I cross a viaduct over the Le Vecchio river. A spectacular view of the gorge on my right and glimpses of a railway line on my left. The railway line continues to follow the road to the next town of Venaco. The river has other ideas, meandering East, eventually becoming the River Tavignano before reaching the coast near Aleria. A quick look at the map shows me I have gentle downhill ride of about 6kms to Corte. Turning left at the first roundabout takes me away from the city centre. A signpost says, 'Camping Tuani - 6kms'. The campsite is located on the bank of the River Restonica downstream of the Gorge de Restonica. I wonder, not for the first time, if this campsite will also be open but closed?! The campsite is definitely open - lots of hikers and (motor) bikers. Unfortunately the reception desk is closed so I push my bike to one of the quieter areas of the site and pitch my tent. It's 4:30pm and with 60 + kilometres on the clock I'm not going any further today. Especially as the river looks promising for a possible trout.
First...the usual routine, although it 's not going to plan as the nearest shower block is closed. Oh! no here we go again. Luckily only closed for cleaning. However, the river is open! There are quite a few tourists heading up and down the river, therefore not expecting any great results from the fly-fishing. Still, it looks too good to ignore.
Further upstream, above the gorge, is the source of the river near Campua i Sorbi which tops out at 2,267 metres. The famous GR 20 passes to the South of the peak through an area known as 'Pointe de sept lacs' for obvious reasons.
I set up my rod and line (WF #'5 Cortland 444) with a single dry fly - a size 14 Grey Wulff. Now this looks a likely pool. As more often than not, in clear shallow water like this, it's the first cast that gets induces the rise. Make sure it's neat cast John and be ready...bugger missed it! Twenty minutes later and moving quietly upstream I have risen three more but without on in the net. I scale down to a size 18 GRHE and voila! A beautiful 12 cms wild brown trout. Over the next hour five more takes and another two caught and carefully released.
Time is moving on and I'm getting very hungry. I pack away my fishing gear and then a quick wash of the clothes and myself then back to Reception. I pay for one night's accommodation and then take a seat in the fairly empty restaurant. It seems most of the campers are happier cooking their own food outside their tents or in their camper vans. Personally, I have enough weight on the bike without adding cooking utensils! My meal was absolutely delicious.
So where to tomorrow? This campsite is a bit too commercial for my liking. I much prefer the gites and refuges. Think I will continue North but not along the N193. The D18 I think will be a lot quieter.
