Stage 9
Week 2 - Stage 9, Tuesday 15th May
Porticcio to Portigliolo, South of Propriano (62kms)
Total Ascent - 1,955 metres
Total Descent - 1,920 metres
On the bike at 9:10am refreshed but 75 Euros lighter. Heading south out of Porticcio along the D55 I immediately pass the Plage d'Agosta. At the far end of the beach is the small village of Agnarellu. I continue south along the coast, the road hugs the shoreline for several kilometres. At the southern end of the Plage de Mare e Sole the D55 takes a 90° left turn and then climbs up for 10 kms through the Forêt Domaniale de Chiavari. I reach the top of the climb, Coti Chiavari, at 10:50am. Beautiful scenery and views on the hill climb, through a forest of Cork, Plane and Eucalyptus trees before dropping down, crossing the Tavaro river, and winding along the coast towards Propriano.
I arrive at a very windy Propriano around 2:15pm. The Rough Guide is correct in its assessment of Propriano, "At town that happens to be on the coast with a small harbour, which feels obliged to cater for tourists, who want to eat ice cream, have a bite to eat and perhaps buy a postcard or T-shirt."
It's the first seaside town I've ever visited where the shops close from 2:30pm until the evening. Mind you, half the island seems to be closed at this time of the year. Not that I mind too much, I prefer the peace and quiet, to the heavy traffic and towns rammed with tourists.
Whilst enjoying a coffee, overlooking the harbour, I notice the current number of photos on my camera stands at over 500. Also the battery was running low. As I may not be passing through a town of this size for a few days, think it would be prudent to find a camera shop (if there is one). I assumed two batteries would be sufficient for this trip and certainly did not want to carry a charger.
Eventually I found a shop, however the lady who owned the shop did not have a suitable battery for my camera. Never mind, I said, hopefully I will find another shop on my journey. As I was leaving the lady stopped me and said, "Please allow me to re-charge the battery for you?" I could not refuse such a kind offer! I left the battery with her and said I would come back a little later.
By the time I returned to the shop, collected the fully charged battery and thanked the lady profusely, time was moving on. It was now 4:40pm! The next main town was a further 15kms uphill on a busy road and the wind was getting stronger. It would not be a pleasant 15kms. As I climbed out of Propriano, I noticed a sign advertising a campsite: "Camping Village Lecci e Murta - 5kms". The sign also boasts a restaurant, pool and shop. I turn right off the busy road and head back towards the coast. The campsite is only a little way past Aerodrome de Propriano-Tavaria.
Upon reaching the campsite, the receptionist smiled and said, "You can pitch your tent wherever you like as we are not busy at this time of the year." I paid the overnight fee and set about finding a suitable pitch for my tent. After washing my clothes and taking a shower it was 7:30pm, so I headed straight for the restaurant - only to find it closed. I asked at reception what time the restaurant re-opened for the evening. I was told, "The restaurant will not be open for another two weeks but the shop will be open at 9:00am tomorrow." "Is there anywhere else nearby to buy some food and drink?" I enquired. "No Monsieur, you will have to go back to Propriano."
I was not a happy bunny. "The sign on the main road says you are open?!" "Yes, we are open but mainly for motor homes." I replied, "No, you're open to take my money, but the facilities are closed!"
I walked down to the bay to take some photos and then slumped off to my tent to tuck into a hearty meal of; 1/2 a blackened banana with 1/2 a packet of peanuts. Lights out at 8:00pm.
