Stage 12
Week 2 - Stage 12, Saturday 19th May
Zonza to Aullene via the Col de Bavella (52kms)
Total Ascent - 2,407 metres
Total Descent - 2,350 metres
This morning has flown by. Leaving my panniers, tent and fly fishing gear at the hotel, I took the 18kms round trip to the Col de Bavella (1,218 metres). So pleased I made the detour - the climb was great. The scenery and views across the valley are spectacular! A rapid descent back to the Hotel was enhanced by riding a bike 30 kilos lighter. Back at the hotel I re-loaded the panniers, tent and all the other paraphernalia onto the bike. Said my 'goodbyes' and set out on the D420 to Quenza.
Stopping for lunch in Quenza, the owner of the restaurant informs me of good trout fishing in the river near Zoza. I cannot pass-up the opportunity to cast a line. So as soon lunch is over, bill paid and directions to the Pont Novu pin-pointed on the map...I'm off!
At a T-junction near Sorbollano I take a left turn on to the D20 downhill for 9kms to the Pont Novu, over the river Rizzanese. Approaching the bridge I hear people laughing, shouting and splashing in the river. Oh Well, 9kms uphill back to the T-junction! On the way, I meet a group of locals tidying nets under the olive trees growing on a very steep bank beside the road. I climb off my bike to watch them. One of the group approaches and introduces himself to me as the local mayor and asks to where am I cycling? Immediately all the others start laughing and each take turns to tell me, "No, I'm the mayor!" I say, my plan is to camp near Corte. Could you tell me how far it is please? The question causes a another round of friendly discussion. I leave them laughing and arguing amongst themselves on how long it will take me to arrive in Corte.
The time is 3:45pm as I re-join the D420. I cycle through the villages of Sorbollano and Serra-di-Scopamène. Here, I ask the owner of a small bar if he knows of any accommodation along the road ahead. "There is a gite d'etape approximately 300 metres further along the road", he says. Alternatively, he mentions, a 1 Star hotel and chambre d'hote in the next village of Aullene.
I must admit that despite only cycling about 50kms, feeling rather tired - don't know why? My choices are narrowed as the gite is full, so push on to Aullene. I find the chambre d'hautre on the right entering the village but nobody is about. A sign on the door said to enquire at the restaurant next door. This building also appeared to be abandoned, however eventually a lady came out from the kitchen. She was crying because of the onions she was peeling for tonight's recipe. She offered to phone the owner of the chambre d'hote who, I presume, also owned the restaurant. Luckily there were two rooms available. I walked back to the property and was shown around. 55 Euros, including breakfast. "I'll take it - thank you". The lady returned to her kitchen duties. As I unpacked my bike a young French couple turned-up. "You need to ask at the restaurant", I explained. "We know", they said. "We telephoned earlier". Phew! Could have been moving on to the next village because I found out the hotel was also fully booked.
Once the daily evening routine was completed, I did something for the first time since arriving on the Island; laid on the bed and switched on my iPod. Jackson Browne, John Hiatt and The Boss kept me company for the next hour. Time to head for the restaurant and some sustenance. Nickelback, 'How You Remind Me' is playing as I enter the restaurant - some pretty good lyrics. [Mind you, saw the band at Wembley Arena a while ago. Call me old-fashioned, but he swears way too much on stage - totally unnecessary].
I realise the music is coming from the kitchen, the atmosphere in the restaurant is more akin to a doctor's waiting room! Wish my wife and son were here. We would be playing that game we play on so many holidays - giving nick names to the other guests. There are quite a few prime candidates here this evening. The elderly couple in the corner - she's popping pills with every mouthful of food (bit odd). He is turning his nose up at everything on his plate. A young couple, clearly in love (or lust) are too busy kissing and cuddling to worry about the food in front of them. Suddenly the silence in the restaurant is broken by the roar of 1/2 dozen quad bikes pulling up outside. The 'posse' comprises 2 adults and 4 children between the ages of about 7 and 10! Nobody batted an eyelid.
I turned my attention back to the menu which is causing me some concern. I cannot translate any of the dishes and the owners - understandably - do not speak any English. Ordered a salad without knowing its contents. My concern was soon justified, the plate contained: tomato, beetroot, cucumber, tuna, radish, melon(?), carrot, sweetcorn and green beans. Plus a couple of other things I'm not quite sure about but think they were fennel and figs. I don't like this 'Russian Roulette' with menus, especially when I'm really hungry after a day's ride!
The saga is repeated for the main course - fingers crossed it doesn't swim, crawl or slowly move over rocks in water. I accept that fish and all its fellow creatures are good for one but I just can't get my stomach to agree. Ah! Squares of meat and potato on a skewer - now that's absolutely fine. Over ice cream and coffee, I review my last three nights' accommodation. Verdict; the hotel neat the coast in Sagone was not VFM. The last two nights' accommodation were cheaper, the establishments better decorated and with better facilities. Plus surrounded by beautiful unspoilt countryside and mountains.
Studying the map, noticed that had I continued on the road past Zoza, I would have arrived at Ste-Lucie-de-Tallano, the village which I'd cycled through 3 days before!
