Stage 10
Week 2 - Stage 10, Wednesday 16th May
Propriano to Bonafacio (90kms)
Total Ascent - 2,992 metres
Total Descent - 3,005 metres
The day dawned cloudy with a threat of rain, however the wind has dropped significantly. As a result of the previous evening's 'forced fasting', I'm up early and keen to get moving on to the nearest establishment selling grub. Half an hour later and I find myself back at the notorious "Camping Village Lecchi e Murta " road sign. Be warned future early season campers!
OK - onwards and upwards - must eat a breakfast soon. I stop at a petrol station and fill-up: 2 x pain au chocolat, 1 x chocolate bar, 1 x orange fruit juice and a bottle of water. While devouring the much needed sustenance, I'm watching the volume of traffic hurtling along the N196 in front of me and decide this road is not for me. It's approximately 50 kms to Bonafacio, I must find an alternative route. A couple of kilometres up the road, before the village of Sartene, is the D268 and D69 which winds its way up into the mountains.
Ah! That's better...a lovely, quiet back road which follows the Rizzanese river before climbing to the village of Ste-Lucie-de-Tallano (500 metres). So frustrating, I'm very keen to stop and spend a coupe of hours by the river, but not too keen on leaving the bike, with all my possessions, unattended. Just then a man walks by carrying a spinning rod, so I ask him there is anywhere further up river for fly fishing. He says there are several places and one of them has a camp site beside the river. Another dilemma; shall I carry on to Bonafacio then face a long climb back up to Levie or stay in the mountains and continue on towards Corte? This is a hard decision and one I shall make over lunch.
I cycle on along the quiet road, climbing a further 100 metres to the village of Levie. En route, I stop at the small village of Sainte-Lucie-de-Tallano for a coffee and to take a few photos. There is a lovely view from the Convent de Sainte Francois of a small grove of olive trees nestled in a carpet of yellow spring flowers. I arrive in Levie at 1:00pm, passing a couple of small cafe/bars. On a bend, towards the end of the village, is a very pleasant looking restaurant with several tables in the shade outside. Think I will stop here for lunch...and did I make the right choice! The owner of 'U Tascaronu' informs me, Plat du jour is Saute D'agneau - it was superb! Lunch over, it's decision time, shall I continue climbing higher into the mountains or make my way to Bonafacio on the South Coast?
Decision made. I can't tun my back on Bonafacio when only a few hours of cycling from such an impressive city perched on the cliffs. It's 2:00pm and only 35kms so far today. I reckon it's about another 50kms to Bonafacio. I cycle out of Levie on an even quieter road (D59), through the village of Cabini and up to the Col de Bacinu (800 metres). A quick time-check; 3:55pm and 49kms under the tyres. At the Col de Bacinu I meet three Frenchmen on very light racing bikes. They're impressed by the loaded paniers on my bike. I turn round and jokingly say, "But where is my wife, she was sitting on the back when I left Propriano this morning?!"
Just before my descent from the Col I was joined by a cyclist from Switzerland. We shared the ride down from the Col which was great fun! He was definitely quicker than me and certainly took the bends at a much higher speed despite my pannier weight advantage! Eventually we turned right on to the main D859 - straight into a very strong headwind. We took turns on the front to give each other some respite from the tiring ride. We said our 'goodbyes' at the village of Figari and I thanked him for the drafting. He really helped me along a good stretch of the busy road.
Wish I'd taken the time to look at the map when we stopped. I could have turned left off the main road and taken a small detour around the Barrage de Figari. I would have avoided a section of the D859 and the N196. Hey Ho! Last leg of the day's ride - 15kms on the N196 and now with a very strong cross-wind! I finally arrive in Bonafacio at 6:20pm, A great today at just short of 90kms, but have to say, the last 20kms were tough!
On the main road I notice a busy campsite with some small chalets. I really can't be asked to pitch a tent, especially after last night's debacle. Fortunately, the receptionist says they have one chalet vacant. Think I'll stay in Bonafacio for a couple of nights in order to do this city justice. By the time I've unpacked, washed my clothes and taken a shower the sun was setting. So I wandered down to the harbour and found a lovely restaurant (one of many) on the quayside. The ravioli was superb!
My wife text me during the meal. I asked the waiter if there was an Internet cafe nearby. He replied, "Mais si Monsier, juste en bas!" It was great to Skype Lesley and Ben and we chatted for over an hour. Difficult at times to hear each other as the bar was showing some footie. The match went to penalties and someone won?! I returned to my chalet and slept soundly.
