Stage 3
Week 1 - Stage 3, Wednesday 9th May
St. Florent to Pioggiola via Desert des Agriates (70kms)
Total Ascent - 3,421 metres
Total Descent - 2,553 metres
Well, I have to say the sleeping bag and air-mattress performed way beyond my expectations, resulting in a comfortable night's sleep. After my ablutions I pack up everything, load on to the bike and head back to the restaurant for a hearty breakfast. All the equipment I brought with me has now been tested and so far so good. One can theorise, mentally prepare for a journey such as this but it's not until to you actually get underway that the equipment (and body!) are really tested!
Over breakfast I scan the map to plot the day's ride. Today I shall be crossing the Desert des Agriates. Not quite what most people would imagine a desert to look like - sand and er...more sand. This is an area of over 12,000 acres (5,000 hectare) of dense scrubland. (True there is no natural water source, so I suppose that could be one criterion for the definition of a desert?) Apparently, there is a law in Corsica which states the coastal land around the entire island is open to the public, so although a large percentage of the desert is 'interdit', the coastline is accessible.
By 10:00am I'm climbing steadily away from St. Florent on the D81, the only road that crosses the desert. 45 minutes later and I arrive at Casta. It is no more than a couple of houses but - thankfully - a bar/restaurant. I'm never one to pass up the opportunity to store some energy! The next section of the road, between St. Florent and the main N197, is really fun. The road twists and turns, rises and drops - with great views all around. At one of the many places where I stop to admire the view I meet two French motorcyclists. We exchange pleasantries, take a few photos and collectively admire the scenery. I know I'm going to say this more than once on this trip...surely there is no better way to see this island than to cycle around it?! Sight, smell, the feel of the wind on your skin. The increased heart rate, not only from peddling uphill, but also from the adrenalin-inducing downhill sections. It all helps heighten the senses and increase the experience. All too soon my desert ride is over, but not before one long, fantastic downhill section. Wow! That was fantastic!
The time is 12:30pm and I'm standing at the junction of the D81 and the N197. After the joys of the previous couple of hours, the main road comes as quite a shock. Fast lorries and even faster cars speed by with very little regard for a Brit on his bike. I must get back on to the quiet roads and off this not-so-tranquil racetrack. About 3kms along the road towards L'Ile Rousse, I see the signs for a campsite, so pull over and dismount. I decide to ask for directions at the reception. According to my map there is a turning back along the road I've just cycled - very near to the D81 turn off - which climbs up Novella. I can then take the D12, turn right at the T-junction with the N197, this will take me over the Col de San Colombano (738 mtrs.) where I can then turn left on to the D963 and continue the climb to Pioggiola.
Oh well...so much for Plan A: the receptionist informs me that the road to Novella is closed. OK...Plan B: I will continue along the main road (yuk) towards I'Ile Rousse. At the Village de Vacances de Losari, there are two roads which wind up in to the mountains. The D363 to Palasca and the N197 to Belgodere. I can decide which one to take once I get there.
As the road bears left and heads along the coast, I encounter a very strong headwind. Actually, it's worse than that, it's more at a 45 degree angle to me, keeping the bike upright, let alone moving forward is proving to be rather difficult! Thankfully it's not too long before I drop down to the holiday village of Losari. What a pleasure to turn off the main road and the bonus of wind more at my back now. I decide to take the 2nd turning towards Belgodere for two reasons: 1) I had read somewhere that Belgodere was a very pretty village and 2) I missed the first turning! The road climbs steadily, the wind drops, and temperature rises. The land drops away to my right to open plains, while to my right the ground rises towards Monte Maggiore. On I climb until, at last, I see a large bush by the side of the road...the first shade in over half an hour! I sit down on a low stone wall for a rest, trying to keep all my body out of the sun. I've been climbing now for about 6kms and still have a few more to go before reaching Belgodere and I'm beginning to get rather hungry. My stomach thinks it's late afternoon, but my watch says 2:00pm. An extra slurp of energy drink from my Camelback, a mouthful of energy bar and then back to the hill and the heat.
I reach Belgodere at 2:30. The main square is indeed very pretty with a couple of restaurants opposite a church with sort of dusty pink and white plasterwork. I choose an outside table, in the shade, at one of the restaurants and prop my bike against a nearby wall. Ah! What a lovely morning's ride that was (apart from the very windy coastal bit). I choose spag bol from the menu and wash it down with an Orangina. The waitress points out an arch between the two restaurants and tells me if I walk under the arch and climb a little way between some houses, I will have a great view of the valley below. I thank her for the information and say that I shall certainly take the advice - and my camera - after lunch! I also take the opportunity to ask her which road to take for Pioggiola.
The view was indeed a sight to behold! The ground falls away quickly from the cottages to the plains below. I can see the road I climbed this morning winding its way up the mountainside. I'm sure my pleasure of the view is intensified because of having cycled and sweated my way up that very road! Back in the village square I check over the bike, top-up my water bottle, and Camelback then prepare myself for the afternoon's climb. The waitress says there are two possible routes I can take to Pioggiola: one route, via Speloncato, is very steep, so recommends I take the other, longer but gentler climb. So, I take her advice for the second time today.
Suitably refreshed and ready for the afternoon's ride, I head out of the village on the N197. After 3kms of climb, the turn-off for the village of Palasca drops away to my left. I continue onwards and upwards for a further 3kms. Here, according to the map, I can continue on to the Col de San Colombano (738ms), or take a sharp right-turn (D963). The village of Olmi-Cappella is on the D963 and my destination today, the village of Pioggiola, just a little further on.
I begin to climb once more. Is this the correct road? Have I missed turning? The waitress, back in Belgodere, said this was the better route, but I've been climbing for ages! Surely the other route - via Speloncato - would have been quicker than this, even if it is steeper? Slowly thoughts begin creeping around my mind...I haven't seen a car, a lorry, a motorbike, a cart, no vehicle of any kind. Normally this would be very welcoming. As a cyclist, all too often one has close encounters with other vehicles, but at this moment I would welcome some form of civilisation! All that has crossed my path in the last hour, or so, is a cow wandering aimlessly along the road.
Ah! A junction at last and fortunately, for me, a family standing outside their car admiring the view. They confirm I need to take the right fork for Olmi and reassure me that the village is not too far. I thank them and set off on the day's final leg. The road levels out for a while - a welcome change - and soon I'm peddling through the Commune d'Olmi Cappella. Not far now to Pioggiola. At this point, I realise that all my proverbial eggs are in one basket: my trusty companion, the Lonely Planet Guide Book, mentions only two places to stay in this area. I have just passed the Hotel A Tramala and...it's closed! All my hopes now rest with the Auberge Aghjola - 2 kms further on. The auberge boasts having a swimming pool at one of the highest altitudes (900 metres) in Corsica . So that's why I've been peddling uphill ever since leaving the coast at Losari!
I have to say the scenery is stunning. In England, people say, you can experience four seasons in one day. Here, I have experienced four countries in one day: the coast road and climb to Belgodere could be anywhere in the Mediterranean - hot and sparse vegetation. Above Belgodere, the landscape begins to change; the cacti and Aloe Vera are replaced by gorse and hardy shrubs. Climb some more and the landscape takes on a low-lying Lake District, or Sussex countryside feel - Chestnut trees, ferns, poppies and daisies in the hedgerows. Climbing this last stage reminds me of Switzerland, or the French Alps - snow-capped peaks in the distance, pine trees. The cows, in the field, in front of me even have bells around their necks! All that's missing is someone wearing ladenhosen and yodeling!
One last steep climb and I finally arrive at the Auberge Aghjola (903 metres). I lean my bike against the wall and turning around come face-to-face with one of the bikers I'd met in the morning while crossing the Desert des Agriates! His initial look of surprise turns to one of concern and I soon learn why. "Ah! The mad Englishman, we meet again! I am sorry to say, the Auberge is fully-booked!" Oh no, surely not?! I put on a brave face (Oh well, I only nipped up here to see what the view was like, won't take long going back - gulp) and head inside to find the owner. The property is really quite splendid - full of character - a beautiful, ivy-clad building that looks like, er...it could do with some TLC. Yep, to be honest, the building is a bit like me; seen better days. But never judge a book by its cover! Apparently the Italian owner, Valerio Caralloni, bought the auberge only a year or so ago and has spent the winter months renovating this delightful Corsican building. And like most building projects, it was running a little over time (and no doubt budget).
Valerio fully appreciated my dilemma and went way beyond the call of duty by offering to open up one of the rooms which was still being re-furbished and at a reduced rate! I thanked him profusely and began helping him move all the building materials and rubbish out of the room. In no time at all, the room looked absolutely fine. Valerio even managed to find a bed and mattress. I laid-out my sleeping bag on the mattress...ah! Luxury after last night laying on my thin inflatable mattress!
A quick shower - courtesy of one of the bikers letting me use the shower in his room - and then down to the main dining room for supper. Phew! Just beginning to realise how tired and hungry I am. Apart from the brief stop for lunch, I've been 'on the go' since 8:30 this morning. The splendid old dining room, with its large open fire and enormous refectory table is a very welcoming site. The table must be big enough to seat 18-20 people. All the guests are gathered: the French bikers; an English couple, on their umpteenth trip to Corsica; an elderly French gentleman, who has been coming to Corsica for over thirty years and hiked virtually every trail worth hiking. The owner, his wife and the two North African cooks complete the gathering.
What a lovely evening to round off a great day. A superb meal, local wine and excellent company. It is so interesting to hear all the different stories of Corsica from different perspectives. I fee like a novice - a schoolboy's first day at senior school. Sharing their experiences of the Island, over so many years, tales criss-crossing with each other's, while I listen, humbled by their knowledge, in silence. After too many courses (and probably one too many glasses of wine), I can't stifle the yawning anymore. So, I thank them all for a splendid evening and shuffle off to bed. Within minutes, I'm fast asleep.
